Day 31 - Sarria to Portomarin - 14.1 miles - TWICE

Roadblock

Sometimes a town does nothing for you, and that was Sarria for me. There wasn't a lot there other than lots of hostels, albergues, hotels, restaurants and pilgrims. I didn't want to stay there on a Sunday by myself as everyone else left. So, I walked today. We (J, K and I) walked out of Sarria at 7:30 am with soooooo many people (more than I had ever seen on any day and most just had a daypack on). We were just astounded at the numbers.

I had this idea to walk with my friends (since it could be my last day seeing some of them) and then taxi back to Sarria for my second night there. It was definitely a "friends day" as we ran into lots from our crowd and spent the entire time walking and talking. It was also the day we passed the 100km sign!!!! We now need two stamps a day from Sarria to verify our walking, so we stopped for coffee at a cute place to relax.

“Historical option” down to Portomarin

We went through a small village right before Portomarin and met a man from CA who now owns an albergue there! He told us all about the challenges of buying a property (it took 4 years just of government red tape to purchase!), and then restoring it. Then COVID hit, but he is now at full occupancy every night! He had all these handmade mosaics with beads and bottle caps he made himself. Good use of all the beer bottlecaps he has after the pilgrims!

As we arrived in Portomarin, I wanted to see if the place I was booked in for Monday night could take me one day early. Once I saw the town and how pretty it was (situated high on a hill overlooking the river with lots sun and all white buildings), I thought it would be much nicer to have a rest day here. So I arrived and went straight to the hotel to ask, and yes with a little maneuvering, they could give me a room. My only problem was that I had left lots of things back in my room in Sarria and still had to return the key.

When I decided, we were all sitting at an outdoor café and enjoying lunch, and I just asked the question, "Would anyone be interested in walking back to Sarria and then I would pay for the taxi back to Portomarin?" It had been such a wonderful walk, and I felt like I had the energy to do it. D (one of the doctors from CA) said he would go. So, I ran back to my new hotel and got my hiking shoes back on, then ran down to meet him. During that time, he changed his mind and decided he wanted to stay and sightsee. So, I started walking by myself at 2pm. Everyone was very worried about me and asked that I check in frequently, so they knew I was ok walking in the afternoon heat. (It's hard to remember the day, only last week, when it was pouring and 48 degrees!). It was still a very nice walk, although I had the issue of everyone asking me why I was going the wrong way again! I passed the huge group of high schoolers, a few people I knew, and lots and lots of new pilgrims looking quite exhausted. I felt really good for the entire walk - no hotspots for blisters, no achy feet or hips, and no exhaustion. Since all I took was my little purse, I bought a water on the way and then a coke for my last third as I needed a little sugar boost. I arrived at 5:38 back at the hotel, quickly checked out and got a taxi back. The doctors had organized dinner at an Italian place and had already ordered for me! So, I quickly changed and met everyone for a really good dinner. At this point, I probably would have eaten an old shoe, but the dinner was really good! Good wine and a delicious salad, lasagna and homemade focaccia! Someone even ordered something that was similar to a fried calzone and said it was amazing! Then we walked up the street for artisinal gelato.

I think tomorrow I will relax with a leisurely breakfast and sightsee around town, maybe read my book outside and just enjoy this town for the extra day. I think my last few days on the trail will be spent meeting new pilgrims and reflecting on my time here as it comes to a close. I've learned so much about myself and my faith in God on this pilgrimage, and I want to carry that forward as a precious gift.