Day 28 - Villafranca Del Bierzo to O”Cebreiro 17.77 miles

Just want to start by showing you what I got at the store yesterday - Tetilla "titty" cheese! It is a semi-soft cheese from Northern Spain that I used to order when I lived in the states!

Although the first 3/4 of the day was not so bad, the last hour plus made up for it!!!! It had been raining during the night and was raining while I was eating breakfast. I, therefore, chose not to take the steep mountain trail (Option #2) and went on Option #1 (path parallel to road most of the way). Everyone I saw had the same idea. We did have light and medium rain off and on throughout the morning. The first town I got to was where the path from the mountain and the road path came together again. Most people stopped there for a coffee to warm up. Let me just say the bar smelled like "wet dog" but worse, - "wet pilgrims who haven't showered or washed their clothes recently!" Ugh!

Still smiling walking in a light rain

I then headed on, since I still had a long way to go. We even had a little sun at one point, and my rain gear felt a little hot. My rain pants worked really well!!! I saw all kinds of jury-rigged rain clothes which were not working for people and some even commented they would definitely bring rain pants and a better rain jacket next time.

The original Jenga game!

The last view before the heavy rain

As I got to the last hill of the day it felt like my legs seized up. I kept going but I was slow, and my legs felt really tired! We were walking the road, and then the trail split. Bikers stayed on the road, and hikers went to the woods. The entire trail up the mountain was muddy, but I was able to walk toward the edges where there were leaves covering the mud for the first bit. That worked until it started pouring! Then the last hour plus (or 4+ miles), it was driving rain, extreme wind, and rivers of mud running down towards me! I had to go really slow not to slip and fall. My Google Maps wasn't working so I only had a general idea of how far I"d come. It was 1:15, and I was cold, exhausted, and really hungry. FINALLY the last little rest stop before O'Cebreiro (where some were stopping for good) I had a rest and a bowl of hot lentil soup! Nothing ever tasted so good!

More rain is coming!

After lunch, it poured even harder and continued till around 5:30pm. I got to my hotel around 3:30, had an amazing hot shower (which I stayed in WAY too long and didn't feel at all guilty about!), put on dry clothes, and wondered if the rain would let up so I could get an early dinner. This is a pretty hotel but it has no meals, and you have to go to the restaurant/bar next door. The rain did let up, and I ran over to have dinner. There were people walking in at 5:30 that were JUST arriving and were soaked through!!! They looked miserable! So lots of hot food and alcohol were in order.

I am now back in my room, and it's pouring again! Since the heat hasn't been turned on in the hotel yet this year, I am snuggling in bed with all the covers pulled over me as I write this. I am really hoping that this weather gets better before tomorrow am! Just wind is ok, but this cold pouring rain and wind is kind of a bummer!

**Sorry there aren't any photos of the rivers of mud and torrential rains, but I was afraid something would happen to my phone if I took it out of the pocket of my raincoat. You'll just have to take my word for it!😉