Day 1 - All It Was Hoped For!

St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles - total ascent of 4,757 ft - 15.1 miles

There are two things I have read and heard about Day 1. That it the most arduous part of the Camino (crossing the Pyrenees) but also the most amazing scenery (if you take the route to the mountain peak and down).

Those of us who chose the Route de Napoleon were not disappointed. It was a beautiful mountain scene for as long as the eye could see. Lush green hills, goats of all shapes and sizes and horses roaming freely across the road, LOTS of poo, the biggest cows I have ever seen, and deep woods full of majestic tall trees in the mist.

The heavy rain that was expected today thankfully never appeared. It was, however, extremely humid. We had lots and lots of fog. So much so that we couldn’t see 20 feet in front of us at one point. One of the rest areas was a man with food truck towards the top that sold farm-fresh hard-boiled eggs, fruit, fresh cheese from those goats we passed, and hot coffee!!! All along the way people were getting acquainted with their fellow hikers. I had some nice conversations with all sorts of people. College students on breaks, recent graduates still trying to figure out life and work, retirees, couples, people just like me that felt it was the right time, and some that had done the Camino many times already (some even hiking all the Caminos in Europe).

At one point I was walking alone and watching a lame goat trying to hobble along to catch up with his grazing group. I felt for this little guy hopping along with his back right leg held up in the air in pain, and probably quite tired from the effort. Every once in a while he would look up, figure out where everyone else was, and keep struggling along. Just like us, sometimes you just need to figure out where you are and keep going.

After the food truck I spent most of the afternoon with Anna talking about our lives. She was resting near the food truck as well when we struck up our initial conversation about the trial and error of what to pack. By the time we were done walking, we felt like old friends. I am always amazed how small our world is. We are both so far from home and yet we have children that went to the same college, we once lived in the same city, and a multitude of other things in common. 3/4 of the walk today was spent climbing to the peak, followed by the quick, steep, rocky descent into Roncesvalles. Although much shorter, downhill is a lot harder than I was expecting. Anyway, everyone seemed very happy to be here - whatever time they arrived! I had the best hot shower I think I’ve ever taken, a delicious warm Basque-style dinner provided by the hotel, and I finished my day attending a wonderful mass in Spanish at the Collegiate Church of Santa María de Roncesvalles; a gothic church that has hosted kings and served as a hospital for pilgrims traveling the Camino since it was built in the 13th century. As a quick side note - while I was attending culinary school, one of our courses was in regional cuisine. These were cuisines that were in America and beyond but were distinctive a blending of cultures. One such region is the Basque region with a blending of the French and Spanish influences, a distinct language, food and culture. There is also tremendous history here from the massacre of Charlemagne’s army to stays by Ernest Hemingway.

It was a great day!!! Off to sleep. Z z z z z

Arrival in Roncesvalles- all smiles

The road out of SJPP